RICK OWENS
FALL/WINTER 2022-23
LOOK 43
GYUHYUN KIM



... STROBE ...

FASHION SHOW
JANUARY 20, 2022

RICK OWENS MENS “STROBE” — BY INDIA ESPY


RICK OWENS RELEASED THE MEN’S FALL/WINTER 2022-23 COLLECTION “STROBE” AT PALAIS DE TOKYO IN PARIS. 

“IN THIS AGE OF IMMEDIATE GRATIFICATION AND META-SELF-INVENTION MORE THAN EVER BEFORE,” RICK OWENS STATED, “MAYBE INDULGING MY ID IS ULTIMATELY THE WISEST PATH.” 

THE SHOW’S LIGHTING FLASHED INTERMITTENTLY AGAINST THE RETROFLECTIVE FABRIC OF “GLAMASLEAZY LIGHT SEEKERS”. THEDA BARA PARKAS ARE WOVEN WITH REFLEX - A YARN MADE FROM GLASS TO REFRACT THE STROBE. A REMIX OF THE SISTERS OF MERCY “LIGHTS” ILLUMINATE HELMETS WITH LIGHT RODS ATTACHED TO THE TOP. 

RICK OWENS REQUESTED MUSICIAN AND BAND MEMBER, ANDREW ELDRITCH, REMIX THE SONG. BUT “HE PREFERRED I CHOOSE ANOTHER [SONG],” RICK STATED. “I HOPE HE WILL FORGIVE MY FINAL LIBERTY OF USING IT.”

“LIGHTS”, AN ANTHEM IN RICK’S DEGENERATE YOUTH, GUIDED THE COLLECTION UP CONCRETE STAIRS FOR THE DARK SILHOUETTES TO ASCEND INTO THE STROBE.

MODEL, TYRONE DYLAN SUSMAN, OPENED THE COLLECTION WITH A DEMONSTRATION OF METAL HARDWARE AT THE UPPER BODY TO INTENSIFY THE LIGHT. 

THE LOOK IS FOLLOWED BY THE “DRELLA COAT” - NAMED AFTER WARHOL’S NICKNAME FROM DISCIPLE ONDINE. THE COAT HAS A BACK SLIT TO EITHER BE BELTED AROUND THE WAIST OR WORN OVERHEAD AS A PONCHO OR CAPE. 






TAILORED COATS AND JACKETS WITH EXAGGERATED SHOULDERS IDENTIFY RICK OWENS, INDULGED WITH A RIGID, STRUCTURED SILHOUETTE. DUVET COATS HAVE A FULL-ZIP TO COVER THE HEAD AND FACE, BUT WITH EYE HOLES CUT OUT.

THE COLLECTION’S COLOR INTENSIFIED WITH AN ORANGE SHEARLING. RICK OWENS WENT IN-DEPTH ON THE PRODUCTION OF THE COLLECTION.

“I DON’T MENTION ALL THIS OUT OF VIRTUOUSNESS,” HE STATED. “WE DEFINITELY HAVE ROOM TO IMPROVE.”

LEATHER WORKING GROUP CERTIFIED SHEARLINGS WERE PRODUCED BY A FAMILY-OWNED TANNERY IN TUSCANY. THE MATERIAL HAS AN ENVIORNMENTAL, TRACEABLE, AND SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE PRODUCTION.

BONOTTO CANVAS WOOL WAS PRODUCED ON AN ARTISANAL SLOW LOOM FROM THE VENETO REGION, WITH A TRADITIONAL “SLOW WEAVING” TECHNIQUE.

100% OF THE JERSEY ARE ORGANIC GOTS CERTIFIED COTTON, WITH 90% OF THE COTTON WOVEN IN THE COLLECTION CERTIFIED ORGANIC, MEANING THE FIBER IS GROWN WITHOUT HARMFUL CHEMICALS.

“I JUST LIKE PROMOTING THE CONVERSATION FASHION IS HAVING ABOUT RESPONSIBILITY, BUT THE PERFECT BALANCE OF VIRTUOUSNESS AND CHEERFUL DEGENERACY HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY HOLY GRAIL.”