FASHION SHOW

GUCCI “ARIA” FALL/WINTER 2021-22 — BY INDIA ESPY

THE GUCCI ARIA COLLECTION, CO-DIRECTED BY PHOTOGRAPHER, FLORIA SIGISMONDI, AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ALESSANDRO “ARIA” MICHELE, “OPENS THE LOCKS OF HISTORY” ON THE 100TH YEAR OF GUCCI. THROUGH A PEEPHOLE, MODEL, DWIGHT HOOGENDIJK, IS GRANTED ACCESS INTO THE “SAVOY CLUB” IN HOMAGE TO GUCCIO GUCCI’S PAST WITH THE SAVOY HOTEL IN LONDON.

“IT’S THE BIRTH OF EROS, ANCIENT AND PRIMOGENITAL FORCE, THAT DRIVES THE DESIRE THROUGH THE ATTEMPT TO MEND A SEPARATION,” ALESSANDRO MICHELE SAID. “THE MYTH, IN FACT, IDENTIFIES THE RELATIONSHIP WITH THE OTHER, THE VITAL IMPULSE THAT OBLIGES EACH OF US TO RESTORE A LOST UNITY.”

MICHELE UNIFIED WITH EROS, THE GOD OF LOVE, THROUGH A HEART-SHAPED CLUTCH EMBROIDERED WITH SEQUINS. THE ANATOMICAL HEART REPRESENTS THE CENTER OF GUCCI: MYTHOLOGY. IN WHICH THE IMPETUS OF THE HOUSE IS METAMORPHOSED THROUGHOUT THE COLLECTION. TO MEND LOVE AND DESIRE, CUPID-LIKE EROS IS THE SELF-BORN FORCE OF UNITY, ACCORDING TO THE GREEK MYTH.

FAIRY-TALE CREATURES—RABBITS, BIRDS, AND HORSES—RESTORED THE HOUSE’S EROTIC FANTASIES. A CENTAUR-ESQUE UNION BETWEEN HUMANS AND CREATURES JOIN FORCES IN THE CENTENARY YEAR OF GUCCI. ALESSANDRO MICHELE, IN A “FETISH COSMOGONY,” VISUALIZED GUCCI’S EQUINE HISTORY THROUGH THE STYLE OF FEATHERS AND WHIPS; WHITE HORSES INTERLOCK NECKS IN THE UNIFICATION OF TRUE LOVE.

“I HAVE CELEBRATED THE EQUESTRIAN WORLD OF GUCCI,” HE SAID.

BOOKS SIMULACRA AND SIMULATION BY JEAN BAUDRILLARD, THE WORK OF ART IN THE AGE OF ITS TECHNICAL REPRODUCTABILITY BY WALTER BENJAMIN, AND SEXISTENCE BY JEAN-LUC NANCY, AND OTHER HISTORICAL TEXT, WERE MICHELE’S PRE-COLLECTION RECOMMENDED READS. MENDED WITH LITERATURE, MUSIC, “GUCCI GANG” BY LIL PUMP, “GUCCI COOCHIE” BY DIE ANTWOORD AND DITA VON TEESE, “GUCCI ON MY BAG” BY MIER, AND “GREEN GUCCI SUIT” BY RICK ROSS FEAT. FUTURE, UNIFIES THE PAST AND PRESENT.

PRIOR TO GUCCI ARIA, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF BALENCIAGA, DEMNA GVASALIA, COLLABORATED WITH ALESSANDRO MICHELE ON “THE HACKER PROJECT”. THE PROJECT “COMBINE[D] THE CODES OF BALENCIAGA AND GUCCI” EXTENDING INTO  BALENCIAGA AND GUCCI’S SPRING 2021-22 COLLECTIONS. IN GUCCI ARIA, DWIGHT HOOGENDIJK OPENED THE COLLECTION IN ARIA’S “HACKING LAB OF INCURSIONS AND METAMORPHOSES,” SET DESIGNED BY GVASALIA.

ALESSANDRO MICHELE PRESENTED THE HACKER PROJECT IN GUCCI ARIA THROUGH BALENCIAGA-ENCODED SILHOUETTES. IN LOOK 43, MODEL, LAMICH KIRABO, WORE A CRYSTAL SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET WITH AN HOURGLASS SILHOUETTE. THE JACKET, STYLED WITH A FRONT SLIT CRYSTAL SKIRT TO MATCH, HAD NON-TEXTILE “BALENCIAGA GUCCI” LETTERING DECORATED IN GLASS.

SHE CLUTCHED A HEART MINAURDIERE IN HAND.

THE HEART IS THEN TRANSPLANTED INTO THE HANDS OF MODEL, FIONA LANGBALLE FREDERIKSEN, TO CLOSE THE COLLECTION. SHE EXITS, BEHIND THE PEEPHOLE, INTO THE SAVOY CLUB DWIGHT WAS GRANTED ACCESS TO AT OPEN. SHE DESCENDS THE HALLWAY TO MEET THE UPHOLSTERED DOORS OF GUCCI’S PAST.

“THE MYTH OF FOUNDATION IS REINHABITED IN THE LIGHT OF THE PRESENT,”ALESSANDRO MICHELE SAID.

SHE ENTERS INTO THE HEART OF GUCCI.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE FANTASY WORLD DISCOVERED BEHIND GUCCI’S DOORS.


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